Odds 'n' Ends

Random thoughts, musings, observations:

• ELECTRICITY  Is used sparingly. In Siem Reap, for example, it's turned off in stores until a customer enters and the clerks run around and turn everything on, including the AC. In Thailand, they use car batteries to power some stuff and charge them during the day. None of this can be a very effective use of resources, but who knows? Also, the electrical and phone wires in Vietnam are bunched together and hung from their version of telephone poles — cinder blocks stacked one above the other. It looks downright dangerous (see photo). We heard somewhere that electrocution was the cause of some deaths in the recent Hanoi flooding because these wires fell to the wet ground.

• LAND MINES  There are 4 million still buried in Cambodia and they continue to maim and kill people. The victims are everywhere, most missing some or all of their limbs and many are blind as well. Attention to the problem seems somewhat limited to t-shirts; it isn't otherwise clear that anything is being done to remove the hazard.

• FRUIT JUICES  The local drink fruits (watermelon, mango, pineapple, coconut) whipped with ice rather than soda. Kind of like a poor man's Jamba Juice and quite refreshing in the heat.

• STREET FOOD  Cafes spring up wherever people are hungry and consist of low tables and tiny stools, made of plastic. Food is cooked in pots on the street or in makeshift hibachis. Refrigeration in these places is non-existent.

• HOTELS  The best was Tara Angkor in Siem Reap, followed by the Green Hotel in Hue. Worst was the Grand China Princess in Bangkok. At the best, entering guests are greeted by workers wearing local dress who bow and offer iced tea. Tara Angkor also smelled of lemongrass.

• HONEYMOONERS  Patrick and Marie got some nice perks, including bouquets and fruit baskets. At the Tara Angkor, "Happy Honeymoon" was spelled out in rose petals on the bed. Wow!

• BREAKFAST  Because our hotels were western, we could have bacon and eggs, cereal, muffins and OJ every day. But we also could opt for veggies, noodles, soup and other local far, some of it kind of mysterious. The spread was impressive at most of the hotels, especially the Green Hotel in Hue, where flowers were carved into the tops of little watermelon, strictly for display. Too pretty to eat.

• HEALTH  We remained surprisingly healthy. All the water we drank is bottled and we had to stay hydrated. A couple of people were a little under the weather, but no one required hospitalization. Some reported bad/bizarre dreams, perhaps due to Malarone, the anti-malaria medication.

• HAIR  Fortunately for the women, the hotels were equipped with hair dryers. Unfortunately, upon contact with humid air, the hair took on a life of its own, generally not pretty. In addition, skin was consistently sticky and often shiny with sweat. Also not pretty.

• NOISE  Unbelievable. Always noisy in the cities. Horns blaring uselessly. At Angkor, the cicadas sounded like one long siren.

• MARKETS  Everywhere. Vendor after vendor after vendor, jammed together. Not exactly a jumble because they are organized by product; ie, silver, jewelry, silk, carvings, food, lanterns. Everything they sell is on display; what you see is what they've got. I loved the little models wearing boys' suits (see above). The markets are protected by either tarps or corrugated roofs. The scene is like a giant chaotic Cost Plus. This is true in all three countries. 

• CARROTS AND CUCUMBERS  Forget parsley. The garnish of choice was carrots, cut to form little flowers, and cucumbers. Probably popular because they're refreshing.

• THAILAND  "Land of Smiles." Very friendly people, and although they sometimes seemed subservient, they are just being respectful. We got out of town just before the least respectful ones took over the airport.

• MOST COMMON PHRASE  "Madame, you buy from me?" Followed by, "How much you want pay?" as they thrust a calculator at you. The really aggressive (desperate?) ones grab your arm or follow you as you walk away.

• URCHINS  Families often send the children out as salespeople, or some simply beg. They know quite a few phrases in quite a few languages. Bunches of them surround prospective buyers. They go to school at night or not at all.

• MONKS  Despite our guide's warnings about the many rules and traditions surrounding Buddhist monks, they seemed pretty normal. They made eye contact and smiles, they had tattoos, smoked and talked on cell phones. They were visible primarily in Cambodia and Thailand, and there are a lot of them, all with shaved heads wearing saffron robes and sandals. The novices are children who sometimes become a monk in order to become educated. Most men test the waters; our Chiang Mai guide, Patrick, was a monk for a day. The nuns also have shaved heads and wear gray.

• TOILETS  I won't go into detail. Suffice to say they don't flush toilet paper because the pipes are too small. Wastebaskets and hoses are adjacent to the toilets, most of which have seats. Some do not. Use your imagination.

• SIGNS  I took pictures of a few (see above). The English is often pretty fractured, and funny

• OBAMA  Tuk-tuk and taxi drivers, as well as others who tried to talk with us, responded with big smiles, thumbs up and "Obama, yes!" when we said where we live.

• FOOTBALL  We call it soccer, but it was all over TV. The favorite team in Bangkok is Liverpool, according to Nick.

• FLOODS  Some markets and restaurants adjacent to the river in Bangkok were ankle-deep in water for part of the day. It seemed to be norma. I assume it was tidal and happens daily.

• WRONG WAY/TRAFFIC  Thailand follows British rules of the road: They drive on the wrong side. However, as opposed to Cambodia and particularly Vietnam, where most vehicles are motorbikes whose drivers apparently harbor a death wish, they actually have rules of the road and seem to abide by them. No driving motorbikes on the sidewalk. They also have traffic signals and no roundabouts.

• SPIRIT HOUSES  When someone dies, the family believes their spirit stays nearby. They build or erect small temple-like buildings, kind of like birdhouses, in front of their homes and pay homage to their ancestors there, leaving food and drink for them. There were few spirit houses in north Vietnam due to communist influence, but they were seen everywhere else. (See picture above.)

• WINE  Red wine is chilled. Stick to beer.

• SCHOOL  Is in session from either 7-11 am, 1-4 pm, or at night. The kids were uniforms. We were awakened in Hoi An at 6:30 by arriving schoolchildren, who started the day at an assembly, where they sat on tiny stools, lined up neatly. 

• RESTAURANTS  Hanoi — Koto, an NGO that trains kids, taking them off the streets. Profits are returned to the restaurant to rescue more kids. Hoi An — White Marble, Mr. Rin. Siem Reap — Dead Fish, Temple Bar. Saigon — Lemongrass.

• THE FUTURE  I'm wondering what will happen to Vietnam and Cambodia as the standard of living rises. Will the handful who already have assets be the only ones to benefit? Will life improve for the poor or will they just get poorer? Will they continue to accept the almighty dollar or will their own currency become more acceptable? Vietnam seems to have a brighter future than Cambodia, primarily because it's far more capitalist and its economy seems stronger. However, major developments are under construction all along the east coast, without any apparent environmental controls. I hope it doesn't turn into Waikiki. Cambodia seems to have a long road ahead. Although a brief visit doesn't leave one with much more than vague impressions, it seems to have been even more damaged by war than Vietnam. It is poorer. Its population is very, very young — 50 percent are under 18. The government seems ill-equipped to handle its problems, whether land mine removal, education or health. It seemed a sadder place than Vietnam or Thailand.

Thailand is by far the most westernized of the three countries and 80 percent of its population lives in the cities. It appeared quite stable when we were there, but of course all hell broke loose days after we left. Right now, the political situation appears to be at a crossroads.