Tuesday, Nov. 18 -- On my own, due to my fellow traveler's continuing illness. Being a really caring roommate, I left Karen behind and took off with guide extraordinaire Patrick Smith, aka Pongesak Sudthivivat. Has a certain ring to it, n'est-ce pas? I thought we were just going to another wat, supposedly the best wat of them all, but Patrick had other ideas.
We started at the Maesa Elephant Camp, and although I know it's politically incorrect to patronize places where they treat these animals like circus performers, I have to say I loved it. Principle, schminciple. Six elephants were getting their morning bath as we arrived, and to all appearances, seemed happy as pigs in mud, and a lot cleaner. The show, which was in a kind of circus ring, began with two huge elephants carrying a sign handing on a pole held on their curled-up trunks: "Welcome to Maesa Elephant Farm." I figured we were really in for it. And we were. About 20 elephants were on parade, walking around in a circle, some holding the tail of the one ahead, others tapping them on their butts. Some swung their trunks in circles, one twirled a hula hoop on his trunk. They played soccer, with one as goalie, held harmonicas in their trunks and danced, gave a "massage" to a handler lying on the ground, engaged in a dart game with some poor schlemiel from the audience (guess who won?), moved huge logs up against some posts to build a wall and actually painted pictures with their trunks. They bowed, crossed their legs, trumpeted and did whatever circus elephants do. But Barnum & Bailey had nothin' on these guys. Talk about the greatest show on earth. At the end, they extended their trunks to the audience, who gave them money and bananas. It was a little like "gentlemen's club" patrons putting money in the strippers' g-strings. Or at least I imagine that's what it might be like. Patrick told me that at another farm, a vet created a prosthetic leg for an elephant who stepped on a land mine.
Then it was off to a beautiful botanical garden, a visit to a tiger farm, where for a price you can get up close and personal with the big cats, who were all asleep when I was there, and a visit to a butterfly/orchid farm. The very hungry caterpiller would have been embarrassed to see these guys -- about 4-5 inches long and about as big around as a dime. They were defoliating everything in sight. The orchids are grown hanging from wires rather than in soil, so long roots dangle down about five feet. There were thousands being grown, all different varieties and really gorgeous. Orchids are quite common here because they're easier to grow than roses.
We skipped the monkey and snake farms in favor of Bhubing Palace, the royal family's winter digs. Six homes stand on the property, which has a dancing fountain, a la Bellagio, and more fabulous gardens. The crown prince, whose log cabin sits above the fountain, has never stayed there.
Finally we hit Wat Phrahat Doi Suthep, one of Thailand's most sacred places with more lavish and ornate decoration and a completely gold spire in the middle. It is reached by climbing 261 steps — or by taking the cable car. Built in the 14th century, it's very high up a mountain and offers a panoramic view of Chiang Mai.
Patrick is really terrific and I had a great day yakking with him. He lost his job with a company that manufactures Adidas when it was bought a couple of years ago by the Chinese, who ousted all the Thais. Previously in marketing as a middle manager, he's very embarrassed to be working as a taxi driver/guide. He gave me all sorts of info about Thailand, where it is actually 2551 rather than 2008, because they go by the Buddhist lunar year. A new house here runs between $32,000-$60,000 (anyone interested?) but foreigners can't own the land so they mostly buy condos. Primary and secondary education are compulsory but not free, costing between $60-$300 per month. Lots of university-educated folks, but not enough jobs. And of course the economy has crashed here too.
By the way, Bruce, there are big billboards here advertising the Thailand Seniors Open at the Summit Green Valley golf course. I think you should go for it.
We started at the Maesa Elephant Camp, and although I know it's politically incorrect to patronize places where they treat these animals like circus performers, I have to say I loved it. Principle, schminciple. Six elephants were getting their morning bath as we arrived, and to all appearances, seemed happy as pigs in mud, and a lot cleaner. The show, which was in a kind of circus ring, began with two huge elephants carrying a sign handing on a pole held on their curled-up trunks: "Welcome to Maesa Elephant Farm." I figured we were really in for it. And we were. About 20 elephants were on parade, walking around in a circle, some holding the tail of the one ahead, others tapping them on their butts. Some swung their trunks in circles, one twirled a hula hoop on his trunk. They played soccer, with one as goalie, held harmonicas in their trunks and danced, gave a "massage" to a handler lying on the ground, engaged in a dart game with some poor schlemiel from the audience (guess who won?), moved huge logs up against some posts to build a wall and actually painted pictures with their trunks. They bowed, crossed their legs, trumpeted and did whatever circus elephants do. But Barnum & Bailey had nothin' on these guys. Talk about the greatest show on earth. At the end, they extended their trunks to the audience, who gave them money and bananas. It was a little like "gentlemen's club" patrons putting money in the strippers' g-strings. Or at least I imagine that's what it might be like. Patrick told me that at another farm, a vet created a prosthetic leg for an elephant who stepped on a land mine.
Then it was off to a beautiful botanical garden, a visit to a tiger farm, where for a price you can get up close and personal with the big cats, who were all asleep when I was there, and a visit to a butterfly/orchid farm. The very hungry caterpiller would have been embarrassed to see these guys -- about 4-5 inches long and about as big around as a dime. They were defoliating everything in sight. The orchids are grown hanging from wires rather than in soil, so long roots dangle down about five feet. There were thousands being grown, all different varieties and really gorgeous. Orchids are quite common here because they're easier to grow than roses.
We skipped the monkey and snake farms in favor of Bhubing Palace, the royal family's winter digs. Six homes stand on the property, which has a dancing fountain, a la Bellagio, and more fabulous gardens. The crown prince, whose log cabin sits above the fountain, has never stayed there.
Finally we hit Wat Phrahat Doi Suthep, one of Thailand's most sacred places with more lavish and ornate decoration and a completely gold spire in the middle. It is reached by climbing 261 steps — or by taking the cable car. Built in the 14th century, it's very high up a mountain and offers a panoramic view of Chiang Mai.
Patrick is really terrific and I had a great day yakking with him. He lost his job with a company that manufactures Adidas when it was bought a couple of years ago by the Chinese, who ousted all the Thais. Previously in marketing as a middle manager, he's very embarrassed to be working as a taxi driver/guide. He gave me all sorts of info about Thailand, where it is actually 2551 rather than 2008, because they go by the Buddhist lunar year. A new house here runs between $32,000-$60,000 (anyone interested?) but foreigners can't own the land so they mostly buy condos. Primary and secondary education are compulsory but not free, costing between $60-$300 per month. Lots of university-educated folks, but not enough jobs. And of course the economy has crashed here too.
By the way, Bruce, there are big billboards here advertising the Thailand Seniors Open at the Summit Green Valley golf course. I think you should go for it.
1 comment:
That sounds awesome. I can't wait to see pictures of the elephants and tigers and that is very interesting how they go by the Buddhist Lunar Year.
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