Monday, Nov. 17 (later still) -- Arrived in Chiang Mai early today, and it is so different from everywhere else we've been. It's a little like Hawaii, tropical, lush vegetation, surrounded by mountains. Our hotel is called Fern Paradise, and it is. A river runs through it, almost 70 varieties of fern grow here, the nine units are old rice barns on stilts and furnished with lots of rattan. It's beautiful and quiet, about 20 minutes out of town.
Karen's under the weather so I headed into the old city, entered through one of five gates and surrounded by a moat. More temples (wats, by the way), by the dozen. They're much older than those in Bangkok and quite different. And then, each is different from every other one here. The oldest is Wat Chiangmun, which features a little crystal buddha believed to be 1800 years old and a marble buddha thought to be 2500 years old. The temple was founded in the 13th century and the walls of the main building are covered with brightly colored murals, with a clear Indian influence, plus lots of red and gold. Wat Chedi Luang is famous for a huge ruined chedi, or pillar, right in the middle, that I believe was wrecked in an earthquake. There's a buddhist university on the grounds, with monks aplenty. In fact, there's a large sign on a building that reads, "Welcome to Monk Chat," and offers visitors the opportunity to talk to a monk about his life, buddhism, Thai culture or just "anything." I didn't see any takers. Third wat is the biggest — Wat Prasingh, the main civic temple. The complex includes a school, several temple buildings, a pagoda, a library and murals with scenes of early life. One temple had four buddhas, one on each side of the altar, and each is different — one's green, one's gold, one's black and the fourth was a mystery. More reclining buddhas as well. In addition to these, there are literally dozens of other wats throughout the old quarter. Everywhere you turn, there's another one. Each is decorated differently but they all feature a gold buddha in the center. Some have a couple dozen gold buddhas. Some have elephants. Some have gold monks. All have gold and porcelain/mirror mosaic decoration. It's quite mind-boggling.
I splurged on a foot massage for $2.80. Felt divine. Massage places are all over; I picked one in a monastery. Karen made it into town for dinner and the night market. Hard to believe the goods are different from Vietnam and Cambodia . . . but they are.
Karen's under the weather so I headed into the old city, entered through one of five gates and surrounded by a moat. More temples (wats, by the way), by the dozen. They're much older than those in Bangkok and quite different. And then, each is different from every other one here. The oldest is Wat Chiangmun, which features a little crystal buddha believed to be 1800 years old and a marble buddha thought to be 2500 years old. The temple was founded in the 13th century and the walls of the main building are covered with brightly colored murals, with a clear Indian influence, plus lots of red and gold. Wat Chedi Luang is famous for a huge ruined chedi, or pillar, right in the middle, that I believe was wrecked in an earthquake. There's a buddhist university on the grounds, with monks aplenty. In fact, there's a large sign on a building that reads, "Welcome to Monk Chat," and offers visitors the opportunity to talk to a monk about his life, buddhism, Thai culture or just "anything." I didn't see any takers. Third wat is the biggest — Wat Prasingh, the main civic temple. The complex includes a school, several temple buildings, a pagoda, a library and murals with scenes of early life. One temple had four buddhas, one on each side of the altar, and each is different — one's green, one's gold, one's black and the fourth was a mystery. More reclining buddhas as well. In addition to these, there are literally dozens of other wats throughout the old quarter. Everywhere you turn, there's another one. Each is decorated differently but they all feature a gold buddha in the center. Some have a couple dozen gold buddhas. Some have elephants. Some have gold monks. All have gold and porcelain/mirror mosaic decoration. It's quite mind-boggling.
I splurged on a foot massage for $2.80. Felt divine. Massage places are all over; I picked one in a monastery. Karen made it into town for dinner and the night market. Hard to believe the goods are different from Vietnam and Cambodia . . . but they are.
4 comments:
I've loved reading about your adventures. I think you should work as a travel writer. Thanks for sharing with all of us.
Did you pick a foot massage in a monastery because you knew it would be quiet - or you were hoping one of the monks would explain the difference between buddhism, hinduism, budism, catholicism, obmanism, bushism,rightism, leftism, openism, closedism, etc????????????
Mom, everything sounds amazing. I'm working on honoring you with a temple right now, should be ready by Christmas.
Nancy, your descriptive writing is wonderful! Hope Karen's photos are equally as good. I cannot wait until after Christmas for the travelogue in the temple with the wide screen TV and ethnic foods! this should be a fantastic evening!
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